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Short Cellar: Organic Whine |
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Written by Matthew Sullivan
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Thursday, 09 April 2009 |
If you are looking for wine with a social conscience, you have more options today than ever before. This is partially because consumers have created a demand for environmentally friendly wine, but there is an added dimension. The North American wine industry is a funny collection of people: some are visionaries, some are detail-obsessed agriculturalists and many are misfits who've retired from stressful careers in the city in order to do something they love. These are just the sort of people for whom the environment is a high priority, and they often take the initiative.
However, idealism only gets you so far and winemakers often struggle to create good wine at a good price that is good for the environment. I've never bought an organic wine because it tastes better than its pesticide-riddled competititors – I've bought it because it makes me feel less guilty for forgetting to turn the lights off in my house. I hope that quality will continue to improve, and that the ethical wine industry can create a distinctive flavour profile.
If you are looking for to earn some good karma with you next glass of Cabernet, here are some of my tips:
- Fetzer Vineyards in California is a large-scale producer whose wines can be found in many restaurants and wine stores. Their “Valley Oaks” line of wines costs just under $15 a bottle and is made with an admirable commitment to environmental sustainability – even to the point of ensuring their lands are a sanctuary for Blue Herons. Perhaps their best is the 2007 Valley Oaks Sauvignon Blanc ($12.45, LCBO #34033) – it is easy to sip and tempting to gulp. It has a nose of sweet grass, hay and green melon, and a body that is lively without being sharp. Fantastic with seafood.
- My favourite Fetzer red is the Valley Oaks Zinfandel ($14.95, LCBO #234617). The simple but congenial flavours of stewed raspberries is spiced up with cedar, smoke and a massive hit of black pepper. Classic California Zinfandel.
- Fetzer is also responsible for a line of certified organic wines called Bonterra. The 2007 Bonterra Zinfandel ($18.95, Vintages #530139) is similar to the less expensive Valley Oaks, but is smoother and more svelte. But can I taste the lack of pesticides? No.
- The most creative experiment in environmental wine in Ontario was concocted by an excellent local wine importer – the Lifford Agency. In 2008, they launched a line of Plantatree wines made by the Ironstone Vineyards in California. For every bottle of wine you buy, they sponsor the planting of a tree in northern Ontario. It's like paying someone to exercise after you've eaten a Twinkie. Plus, they are so inexpensive it's almost cheeky... the Plantatree Cabernet Sauvignon ($8.95, LCBO #65102) is especially good: a laid-back and fruity table wine.
Matthew Sullivan is a civil litigator in Toronto. He writes a weekly blog entry here on lawandstyle.ca. The Short Cellar column appears in the print edition of Precedent. Matthew can be reached at
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