I just returned from a trip to Prague. Not only is it the most beautiful city in Europe, but it oddly resembles a Tootsie-Pop. The exterior of Prague is a thick layer of baroque and gothic architecture: gargoyles, statuary and spires. But if you delve underneath this crusty surface, you will find a golden interior: classic, turn-of-the-century Art Nouveau. The Hotel Central, the Hotel-Pariz, and Smetana Hall at Municipal House have an elegance that surpasses any Art Nouveau that I have ever seen, even in Paris.

The grandest expression of Art Nouveau of all is the formal dining room of the Francouzska Restaurace (French Restaurant). This is a room so stunning that it was given a feature role in the splendid Czech film I Served the King of England. I was led to the Francouzska by instinct: although Prague is a cheap city, I have an talent for finding the one place that absolutely exceeds my means...

When tasting red wines in Ontario, I often spit more than I swallow. This is because local wineries habitually grow grapes ill-suited to the cool climate of the Niagara region. Red grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are popular everywhere, but they require a long, warm growing season to ripen properly and this is iffy in Niagara. Unripe fruit whelps a wine that is nasty, brutish and short – something you find throughout the tasting rooms of Ontario wineries.

This climate leads many winemakers to plant Cabernet Franc, another of the “noble” red grape varieties of Bordeaux. Cabernet Franc ripens quickly, survives winter well and provides a generous crop. The problem is that Cabernet Franc doesn’t really have the chops to stand alone. In France, it is blended with other grapes to add fragrance and a touch of spice. But a bottle of 100% Cab Franc can be weak and tastes like green pepper. Blech.

Matthew drinks bad wine so you don't have to. Less spitting after the jump...

• Boekenhoutskloof 2007 “The Wolftrap” South Africa ($13.95, Vintages #626333)
  The Wolftrap is another interesting case of the New World trying its hand at a distinctly Old World style. In this case, it is South Africa masquerading as south France by making this blend of Syrah, Mouvèdre and Viognier – a classic combination in the Rhone Valley for spicy, wild wines. This is wild alright - both the nose and the palate are outrageously complex: peppercorns, pencil lead, smoke, Nestle Cocoa Powder and brambles sizzle out of the glass. Viognier is a white grape that adds floral lift and some much appreciated lightness to this strange menagerie of flavours. This wine would get top marks for character alone, but add to this the fact that it is less than $14 and you have a true star.  89/100

If you are looking for wine with a social conscience, you have more options today than ever before. This is partially because consumers have created a demand for environmentally friendly wine, but there is an added dimension. The North American wine industry is a funny collection of people: some are visionaries, some are detail-obsessed agriculturalists and many are misfits who've retired from stressful careers in the city in order to do something they love. These are just the sort of people for whom the environment is a high priority, and they often take the initiative.

However, idealism only gets you so far and winemakers often struggle to create good wine at a good price that is good for the environment. I've never bought an organic wine because it tastes better than its pesticide-riddled competititors – I've bought it because it makes me feel less guilty for forgetting to turn the lights off in my house. I hope that quality will continue to improve, and that the ethical wine industry can create a distinctive flavour profile.

Tree frogs are green! And so is the wine Matthew mentions after the jump...